In the village of Verkhivnia in the Berdychiv district of the Zhytomyr region stands one of the most interesting estates in the region — the Hanska Palace, known today as the Honoré de Balzac Museum. This place combines Ukrainian history with European literature.
The palace is a two-story classical-style building with white columns, erected in the early 19th century. The estate complex included a large park, outbuildings, and a chapel-crypt. All of this belonged to the Hanska family, wealthy landowners of that time.
History of the Estate
The estate was owned by Count Wacław Hański. The place was made famous far beyond the borders of Ukraine by his wife, Ewelina Hańska.
"A little Louvre" — this is how Balzac saw the estate.
In 1832, Ewelina began corresponding with Honoré de Balzac, signing her letters as "The Stranger." Their secret romance in letters lasted for many years, and later they met in person.
After her husband's death, Ewelina became free, and in 1847 Balzac came to Verkhivnia. In March 1850, they were married in Berdychiv, and in May of the same year, the couple left for Paris forever.
Read on the topic: Verkhivnia and the love story of Balzac and Hańska: how the Zhytomyr region became part of European literature
Balzac in Verkhivnia
The writer lived on the estate from 1847 to 1850, with a break for a trip to France in 1848. Here he worked in his own study on the drama "The Stepmother" and the novella "The Member of the Family" (L'Envers de l'histoire contemporaine).
The palace still preserves the writer's study, as well as several rooms that tell about his life in general and his years in Verkhivnia in particular. The memorial exhibition opened here in 1959.
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Current Condition
Today, the palace has a mixed function:
- part of the building is the Honoré de Balzac Literary and Memorial Museum;
- the rest of the premises are occupied by an educational institution — the former agricultural technical school.
The historical part is preserved and open to visitors. The Hanska estate is included in the State Register of Immovable Monuments of Ukraine.
The Territory
Around the palace have been preserved:
- the ancient Verkhivnia Park;
- outbuildings;
- the chapel-crypt.
Together they form a cohesive estate ensemble, rather than just an isolated building.
How to Get There
Verkhivnia is located in the Ruzhyn hromada, about 50 km east of Berdychiv. It is most convenient to travel by car; there is also bus service from Berdychiv and Ruzhyn, but there are few trips. The palace is on Myru Street.
What is Nearby
Verkhivnia is a rural area, so there is more tranquility here than city traffic. The trip can be conveniently combined with Berdychiv, where Balzac and Hańska were married in the Church of St. Barbara.
The Hanska Palace in Verkhivnia is a place where Ukrainian history and French literature intersect. Here you can feel not only the past, but also the personal story of two people that became part of the cultural heritage.