Christmas in Polissia is not just a Christmas tree in the central square. It is also a quiet road through snow-covered fields leading to a village where the age-darkened tops of a wooden church rise above the houses. Once, there were thousands of such churches, but only a few survived: some burned down, others were dismantled during the Soviet era. Those that remain have stood for 150–250 years and still gather people for services.
We have gathered wooden churches from our guide that are worth visiting in winter: from Zhytomyr region and Volyn to Sumy region and Polish Polissia. Each has its own page with history, coordinates, and a route button.
When to go
Since 2023, the Orthodox Church of Ukraine and Greek Catholics celebrate Christmas on December 25, with Christmas Eve on December 24. Rural churches are at their most beautiful on Christmas Eve and Christmas morning, when people gather for services and sing carols. Roman Catholic parishes in Poland also celebrate on December 25, while Orthodox parishes in Poland mostly follow the old calendar, celebrating Christmas on January 7.
If you only want to look at the architecture and take photos, it is better to go on an ordinary weekday or between holidays: there are fewer people, and you can calmly walk around the church. Most village churches are open only during services, so getting inside is not always possible.
Zhytomyr Region
Trinity Church in Trokovychi
Near Cherniakhiv stands one of the most remarkable wooden churches of Polissia — Trinity Church in Trokovychi. It was built in 1791 at the expense of five villages that came together for a shared sanctuary. Local craftsmen created a rare seven-srub, seven-domed church: four symmetrical towers were added to the three main log structures. It is an architectural monument of national significance, and the church is still active.
Pokrovska Church in Horbuliv
Located 25 km from Cherniakhiv, in Horbuliv, is the Pokrovska Church of 1746, one of the oldest wooden churches in the Zhytomyr region. Horbuliv is known as the birthplace of the Sokolovsky otamans, so it is easy to combine the trip with local history. Trokovychi is a half-hour drive from Horbuliv, allowing you to see both churches in one day.
Volyn
Shepel and Usychi on the Serna
West of Lutsk, along the Serna River, stand two old Volyn churches. The Church of the Dormition in Shepel was built in 1780: three log frames in a row, with a drum, lantern, and dome over the central one. A few kilometers away, in Usychi near Torchyn, is the Church of St. Stephen from 1795. The most interesting feature is its interior: high arched openings unify the entire space of the church.
Ostrivya near the Shatsk Lakes
The Church of St. Barbara in Ostrivya is the oldest in the former Shatsk district: scholars date it to the early 18th century, although the parish was mentioned as early as 1510. The church stands on a hill above the lake and terminates the vista of the main street. In winter, when the Shatsk Lakes freeze over, this view is especially beautiful.
Kyiv Region
In the east of the region, 19 km from Baryshivka, in the former Cossack village of Lukashi, stands St. Michael's Church built in 1896. Built by the local community, it is one of the few surviving active 19th-century wooden churches in the Kyiv Region. The Sukhoberezytsea River flows through the village, transformed by sluice gates into a chain of ponds — in winter, it is quiet and deeply rural here.
Chernihiv Region
St. George's Church in Sedniv
In Sedniv, on a hill in the Koronnyi Zamok tract in the centre of an ancient hillfort, stands St. George's Church — a monumental Baroque wooden church built without a single nail. It dates to the mid-18th century, though some researchers believe it to be even older. According to legend, Cossacks of the Sedniv Company consecrated their weapons here. Sedniv lies 25 km from Chernihiv, making it a convenient half-day trip.
St. Catherine's Church in Chernihiv
If you travel to Chernihiv, take note of St. Catherine's Church built in 1715. Although built of stone, it mimics the forms of Cossack wooden churches: five domes arranged in a cross. This is clearly visible when comparing it to the church in Sedniv.
Sumy Region
In Lebedyn stands Resurrection Church, the city's oldest church. According to local tradition, it was constructed from pine timber without nails in 1789, and oak posts are partially preserved beneath the central log structure. There are other old wooden churches in the Sumy Region — in Konotop in the Zahrebellia neighbourhood and in Pyrohivka on the Desna River.
Safety: the north of the Sumy and Chernihiv regions near the border with Russia is regularly shelled. Before travelling, check local news and the air raid alert map, and avoid unnecessary trips to border hromadas.
Polish Polissia
On the other side of the Bug River, near Włodawa, several wooden churches have survived church union, wars, and population displacements. They are convenient to combine with a trip to Poland over the holidays.
- Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross in Horostyta — dating from 1702, featuring a detached bell tower and a carved fence. Today, it is an Orthodox parish that also includes churches in Hola and Kaplonosy.
- Church in Hola — adjacent to an old cemetery and an open-air museum of the folk culture of Chełm Land and Podlasie, where you can see an entire wooden village.
- Church of SS. Peter and Paul in Hanna — 1739–1742, built by the Radziwiłł family for Greek Catholics; it is now a Roman Catholic church.
How to behave in a church
- During the service, take photos only from the outside or ask the priest for permission.
- Women usually cover their heads in Orthodox and Greek Catholic churches, while men remove their hats.
- Do not leave your car right by the gate — on holidays, people and carts with carolers gather there.
- Wood burns easily: place candles only in candle holders and do not smoke near the church.
Travel tip
Rural roads in Polissia are not always cleared in winter, especially in the forests. Take extra fuel and a charged power bank, and plan your route in advance — each church page has a “Get directions” button with coordinates. Read about holiday traditions in our article on ancient carols and shchedrivky.
