Baturyn is a small town on the Seim River in Nizhyn Raion, which played a huge role in the history of Ukraine. In 1669–1708 and 1750–1764, it was the residence of the hetmans of Left-Bank Ukraine: Demyan Ihnatovych, Ivan Samoilovych, Ivan Mazepa, and Kyrylo Rozumovskyi. Today, Baturyn is the Hetman Capital National Historical and Cultural Reserve.

Mazepa's Capital

When Baturyn became the hetman's capital, a residence was established here: a citadel in the Small Town, a fortress in the Great Town, and Mazepa's palace on the outskirts in Honcharivka. The Cathedral of the Life-Giving Trinity and several churches were built, none of which have survived. At the end of the 17th century, Baturyn became a prominent cultural center, the core of which was the St. Nicholas Krupnytskyi Monastery; Dmytro Tuptalo was one of its igumens.

Hetman Ivan Mazepa
Hetman Ivan Mazepa. Image: Martin Bernigeroth (de), CC BY-SA 4.0

The Baturyn Tragedy

On November 2, 1708, after Mazepa sided with the Swedish King Charles XII, the Moscow army commanded by Alexander Menshikov captured Baturyn. The town was completely destroyed, and most of its inhabitants were slaughtered. Peter I moved the residence of the hetmans to Hlukhiv. In 2004, 296 years after the tragedy, a cross was erected on the graves of the fallen.

Reconstructed citadel of the Baturyn Fortress
Reconstructed citadel of the Baturyn Fortress. Photo: NSayenko, CC BY-SA 4.0

Revival under Rozumovskyi

In 1750, Kyrylo Rozumovskyi was elected hetman, and he was allowed to rebuild Baturyn and return the residence here. The town came alive: brickyards, a cloth manufactory, a candle factory, the stone Intercession and Resurrection churches, and two palace-and-park ensembles appeared. After the abolition of the hetmanate in 1764, development slowed down. Rozumovskyi spent his final years in Baturyn, died here in 1803, and was buried in the Resurrection Church-Mausoleum.

Hetman Kyrylo Rozumovskyi, portrait by Louis Tocqué
Hetman Kyrylo Rozumovskyi, portrait by Louis Tocqué. Image: Louis Tocqué, public domain

What to See

The Hetman Capital Reserve was established in 1993, and in the 2000s its main landmarks were restored and rebuilt. It is worth seeing Hetman Kyrylo Rozumovskyi's Palace with a park above the Seim, the reconstructed citadel of the Baturyn Fortress, the House-Museum of General Judge Vasyl Kochubei with Kochubei Park, Rozumovskyi's Resurrection Church-Mausoleum, the Baturyn Archaeology Museum, and the Cossack Yard. Baturyn is also famous for cattail weaving.

House of General Judge Vasyl Kochubei
House of General Judge Vasyl Kochubei. Photo: Oksana Lomko, CC BY-SA 4.0

Every year, the Cossack Festival takes place here, tracing its history back to the "Dzvint-90" campaign of 1990.

Coat of arms and flag

The coat of arms of Baturyn is known from a 1717 seal: a crescent with its horns pointing upwards, a cross above it, and a six-pointed star higher up.

Coat of arms of Baturyn
Coat of arms of Baturyn. Image: Olexdj, public domain
Flag of Baturyn
Flag of Baturyn. Image: unknown author, public domain

How to get there

It is about 130 km from Chernihiv to Baturyn via Bakhmach. A ready-made city route is available — „A walk through the hetman capital of Baturyn“.